Kantha and other traditionnal embroideries of India.

Kantha embroidery.

Lavoisier could have been born in India because in the sub-continent, “nothing is lost, everything is transformed”; and this motto applies especially to Kantha embroidery. If today it is widespread throughout northern India, it originated in West Bengal as well as Bangladesh and was mainly performed by Muslim women. The traditional kantha is “quilting” made with used sarees or dhotis, layered and embroidered together in front stitch. Following the inspiration of the embroiderer, some of these pieces became true works of art. Nowadays we use this age-old technique to make very pretty bedspreads or to give a second life to old silk or cotton saris in order to transform them into shimmering scarves.

Aari and zardosi embroideries

Aari and zardosi embroideriesThese two techniques are often combined on contemporary ceremonial clothing. The first is a kind of chain stitch made using a long, thin, sharp hook-shaped needle called an aari. The patterns thus formed are then flattened. Beads and sequins are sometimes added to this type of embroidery, which is generally often very colorful. Check out this great video on aari embroidery: https://youtu.be/kbyE1JEJug0
Zardosi embroidery is of Persian origin and has been present in India since 1500 BC. The word zardosi literally means gold work. This type of relatively heavy metallic embroidery was once done using gold and silver as well as natural or metallic pearls and precious stones. Furnishing fabrics and ornamental pieces were made, as well as clothing. Nowadays this type of embroidery is still practiced but sequins and sequins have replaced precious stones and gold and silver have given way to less expensive metallic threads.

Sisha or mirror embroidery

It is the type of embroidery originating from Western India and more particularly from the Kutch region in Gujarat. Mirrors, very decorative, were mainly used to reflect and ward off evil spirits. There are thus pieces intended to frame the entrance doors and thus protect the house from the evil eye as much as clothes.

Banjara

The banjara is a type of embroidery from the nomadic cattle-breeding tribes. These are thick and solid embroideries combining different embroidery stitches, in particular the Florentine point, the petit point and the satin stitch. Banjara embroideries are rather geometric, very colorful and often embellished with shells and mirrors

Other types of embroideries

There are still many embroidery techniques in India. If you are interested, I recommend the excellent article of the site “Le temps de broder” which inspired me a lot and of which here is the link: https://letempsdebroder.com/articles/inde-variete-des-techniques- de-broderie/ as well as that of the Victoria and Albert Museum which they themselves were inspired by and it is in English: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/indian-embroidery